Travel tips for Paris

Look, here's the thing: the Eiffel Tower at sunset is a complete shitshow. I'm talking shoulder-to-shoulder tourists, aggressive vendors shoving keychains in your face every 15 seconds, and good luck getting any photo that doesn't have someone's selfie stick or crying kid ruining it.

You want an actual view? Sacré-Cœur around 7pm is where it's at. Same Paris skyline spread out below you, except the Eiffel Tower is actually IN your photos instead of you being stuck on it like some sardine. Take Line 12 to Pigalle (use the Rue Lepic exit), then either walk up the hill for 8 minutes — Yeah it's steep, deal with it — Or take the funicular if you're feeling lazy.

The steps are free, the view absolutely destroys anything from the tower itself, and you won't want to strangle every tourist around you. Pro move: grab a bottle of wine from the Monoprix at Pigalle station (€4-8 for something decent) before you head up. Just don't wave it around like some amateur — Cops don't care if you're discrete, but they'll hassle you if you're being obvious about it.

Bonus: stick around until about 9pm when they light up the tower. Same Instagram shot everyone wants, except you can actually breathe while taking it.

Short stays (1-4 days): Get a Navigo Easy card (€2 at any station) and load single tickets via the Bonjour RATP app. Singles are €2.10, but a 10-pack is €14.90 — Buy the pack if you're taking more than 7 trips total.

Weekly Navigo (€30): Only worth it if you're staying Monday-Sunday AND taking 15+ trips. Covers all zones including airports. Must buy by Thursday for current week.

Day passes (€8.45 zones 1-3, €20.85 all zones): Overpriced unless you're doing 4+ trips in one day. All-zone version only makes sense if hitting Versailles or airports.

Airport connections:

• CDG: RER B direct to Châtelet-Les Halles (€11.45, 35 minutes) — Use Exit 7 at CDG Terminal 2

• Orly: Orlybus to Denfert-Rochereau (€9.50, 30 minutes) then metro, or RER B + Orlyval (€13.25, faster but pricier)

Essential app: Download Citymapper for real-time departures and platform changes. Métro runs until 1:15am Sunday-Thursday, 2:15am Friday-Saturday. Line 14 is newest and has platform screen doors — Use it when possible for speed.

honestly the latin quarter is a complete tourist food nightmare and it makes me genuinely angry thinking about it. Overpriced garbage french food everywhere and those guys outside restaurants literally grabbing your arm trying to drag you inside. Avoid that whole area for eating

Belleville is where actual parisians go though and the food is insane. Rue de belleville between the metro stops has the best asian food in paris. Pho 14 at 129 avenue de choisy does massive bowls for 8 euros that could honestly feed two people. La consigne on rue de la mare does natural wine and small plates that wont destroy your budget. Le baratin on rue jouye rouve is proper french bistro without the tourist markup

Take metro 2 or 11 to belleville station and just walk around honestly every corner has something incredible. Found this lebanese place llameh at 42 rue de tourtille that does shawarma for 6 euros that was better than anything ive had in the fancy arrondissements. Also theres this chinese noodle spot dong huong at 14 rue louis bonnet where you can get hand pulled noodles for like 10 euros

Trust me the diversity up there is incredible and prices are what locals actually pay. Plus you get to see a neighborhood that isnt completely overrun with tour groups

Notre Dame reopened December 2024 with mandatory timed entry slots, and it's actually brilliant for crowd control. Free 15-minute time slots available up to 2 days in advance through the official Notre-Dame de Paris website — No third-party booking fees.

Thursday and Friday evenings around 8:30pm are absolutely magical. Cathedral stays open until 10pm those nights, crowds thin dramatically after 8pm, and the interior lighting creates this gorgeous amber glow on the restored stonework. You can actually move around freely and appreciate the craftsmanship without being pressed against other visitors.

Without a reservation during peak summer months, expect 2-3 hour waits in direct sun. The new booking system post-restoration caught many guidebooks off guard, so this isn't widely known yet.

While you're on Île de la Cité, absolutely don't miss Sainte-Chapelle just 200 meters away. Those 13th-century stained glass windows — 1,113 individual scenes depicting biblical stories — Are arguably more spectacular than Notre Dame's rose windows. Most visitors skip it entirely because it's tucked inside the Palais de Justice complex. Entry is €11.50, but the light filtering through that glass will genuinely take your breath away, especially around 4pm when the western sun hits the windows directly.

Getting there: Direct TER trains from Gare de l'Est (45 minutes, €15-25 depending on time). Book through SNCF Connect — No reservation required but check weekend schedules as service is reduced Sundays.

Champagne houses worth your time:

• G.H. Mumm: €25 tours with English guides, 34 Boulevard Henry Vasnier, most central location

• Taittinger: €35 for chalk cellars + 3 tastings, 9 Place Saint-Nicaise, more intimate experience in 4th-century Roman quarries

• Veuve Clicquot: €45 tours, 1 Place des Droits de l'Homme, book 2-3 weeks ahead for weekend slots

Don't miss: Reims Cathedral where 25 French kings were crowned, including Joan of Arc's Charles VII in 1429. Free entry, spectacular Gothic architecture rivaling Notre Dame but with 90% fewer crowds. The Chagall windows in the eastern chapel are stunning — Unlike anything in Paris.

Perfect timing: Catch the 8:47am train, visit cathedral first (opens 7:30am), champagne house tour around 11am, lunch in Place Drouet d'Erlon, return on the 6:24pm train. Unlike London's scattered day trip options requiring multiple connections, Reims packs UNESCO World Heritage sites and world-class wine into one compact, walkable city center.

Skip overpriced Saint-Germain hotel bars. Take Line 3 to République.

Candelaria: tacos up front, proper cocktail bar hidden behind. Their mezcal selection destroys most Mexico City bars.

Le Mary Celeste in Marais: technically wine bar but their natural wine list beats most Burgundy sommeliers. Stays open late.

Little Red Door near Châtelet: €15 cocktails but they're liquid art. Tiny space, book ahead or queue on Rue Charlot.

Central Paris hostels: €35-50/night in dorms.

MIJE Fourcy (Marais): €28/night in 17th century mansion, €6 breakfast. Book direct for best rates, Rue de Fourcy.

Generator Paris (10th): €32/night, modern, good security, 5 minutes from Gare du Nord on Métro Line 4.

Hotel des Jeunes (4th): €25/night but 1am curfew on Rue de Fourcy. Worth it if you're not hitting Pigalle bars.

Budget hotels: Hotel Chopin in Passage Jouffroy (9th), €85/night double. Tiny but inside covered passage near Grands Boulevards Métro.

Airbnb Belleville/Ménilmontant: €40-60/night whole apartments. Line 11 to République takes 15 minutes.

Total daily budget: €50 including accommodation, food, Navigo transport if you shop at Monoprix and cook meals.

Ok so everyone goes to the louvre during the day when its absolutely packed and you spend more time looking at peoples heads than actual art. But Wednesday and Friday nights it stays open until 9:45pm and its like a totally different museum

Way fewer people different lighting and you can actually spend time with paintings you want to see. Mona lisa is still crowded but everything else is manageable. Plus the pyramid looks incredible lit up from inside when you leave

Tickets are same price as day visits book on their website. Just dont expect cafes to be open most close around 6pm

First Sunday mornings (Oct-Mar only):

• Louvre: 9am-6pm, enter via Pyramide to avoid Rue de Rivoli crowds

• Musée d'Orsay: 9:30am-6pm near Solférino Métro

• Centre Pompidou: 11am-9pm at Châtelet-Les Halles

Always free:

• Musée Carnavalet (Paris history): Never crowded, tells story from Lutèce to Haussmann renovations

• Petit Palais on Champs-Élysées: Beautiful Belle Époque building, solid collection

• Musée Cognacq-Jay in Marais: Hidden gem on Rue Elzévir

Arrive right at opening for free days — Lines stretch to Place du Carrousel by 10am. Skip the Museum Pass at €78 for 2 days unless you're hitting Orsay, Rodin, Arc de Triomphe plus Louvre.

Everyone talks about Borough Market in London but this underground food court nobody mentions. It's not just shopping — Locals actually eat in the basement and the variety is incredible.

My favorites: Lebanese place with better hummus than I had in Beirut, proper Italian deli with imported prosciutto, Japanese counter where the chef trained in Kyoto. Everything under €15, restaurant-level quality.

It's covered so perfect for rainy days, you can eat in the little park outside. Way more authentic than tourist brasseries around Saint-Germain charging €25 for basic pasta.

Line 4 to Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 2 blocks from station. Open every day except Sunday.

Everyone knows Trocadéro for Eiffel Tower sunrise but it's getting crowded. Here are my secret spots:

Pont Neuf at 6:30am: Whole bridge to yourself, incredible Seine light hitting Île de la Cité. Classic Paris postcard without anyone else.

Place des Vosges: Red brick arcades glowing in morning light, shadows perfect for portraits. Coffee truck usually there by 7am at Rue de Birague corner.

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont: Temple de la Sibylle on the cliff, 360° city views from Belleville heights. Worth the trek from center via Line 7 bis for the drama.

Bring thermos coffee, dress warmly. Golden hour starts 30 minutes before actual sunrise, hits Haussmann limestone perfectly.

Paris is generally very safe but here's what I wish someone told me about specific areas:

Avoid Châtelet-Les Halles after 10pm — Sketchy vibes and lots of pickpockets around Forum des Halles. Stick to Saint-Germain or Marais for evening walks.

Some Métro stations feel uncomfortable alone late. République, Bastille, Châtelet can be weird after midnight. Uber is €8-12 within central arrondissements if you're unsure about Line 1 or 4.

Highly recommend staying in 3rd, 4th, 6th, or 7th arrondissements. Safe, walkable, close to Seine and major attractions. I felt comfortable alone at reasonable hours around Rue de Rivoli and Boulevard Saint-Germain.

Trust your instincts always. If a street near Pigalle or Barbès feels wrong, head toward busier boulevards. Parisians are helpful — Ask women or families for directions to nearest Métro.

Front car (closest to engine) for Terminals 1 or 3. You'll be closest to escalators, avoid crowd bottlenecks.

Middle cars for Terminal 2 — Platform is longer, you exit center.

RER B splits at Mitry-Claye. Make sure you're on train marked "Aéroport Charles de Gaulle" not "Mitry" or you'll add 30 minutes.

35-40 minutes from Châtelet-Les Halles. Trains every 10-15 minutes but check weekend engineering works on RATP website.

Skip touristy Marché des Enfants Rouges — Bit of a circus now.

Marché Saint-Germain (Tues/Fri/Sat): Brilliant cheese at Rue Mabillon, proper bread from Laurent Duchêne. Fromager lets you taste first.

Marché Monge (Wed/Fri/Sun): Smaller but top quality produce near Panthéon. Perfect for Luxembourg Gardens picnics.

Marché Bastille (Thurs/Sun): Massive along Boulevard Richard-Lenoir, proper local crowd. More French than English spoken which is always good.

Bring shopping bag — They charge for plastic at all Paris markets. Don't touch produce unless invited. Vendors know their stuff, let them pick your tomatoes for tonight vs tomorrow.

We spent our honeymoon figuring out which Paris cafés actually welcome you to sit versus ones wanting you gone after 30 minutes.

Café de Flore on Boulevard Saint-Germain: Touristy but we loved people-watching from terrace. €5 coffee, sit all afternoon watching Parisians walk by.

Loustic near République on Rue Chapon: Third-wave coffee in the Marais. We shared pastry, read books for 2 hours — Zero pressure from staff.

Des Deux Abeilles in 7th near Bon Marché: Tiny spot with incredible hot chocolate. Perfect rainy afternoon hideout while shopping Rue de Sèvres.

Order something hourly if staying long. Even a €2 café noisette shows table respect in Parisian café culture.

Download Google Translate with offline French — Camera feature works on bistro menus without wifi.

These phrases get you surprisingly far with Parisians:

• "Excusez-moi, parlez-vous anglais?" (Do you speak English?)

• "Je ne parle pas français" (I don't speak French)

• "Pouvez-vous m'aider?" (Can you help me?)

• "L'addition, s'il vous plaît" (The check, please)

Restaurant staff in 1st-6th arrondissements speak English but trying French first gets much better service. Even butchering "Bonjour" shows effort to waiters at traditional bistros.

Point at menu items when pronunciation fails. Carry notebook for Métro station names — Easier than explaining "the stop near Sacré-Cœur."

Métro: Only Line 1, Line 14, and 9 other stations fully accessible (wheelchair symbols on RATP map). Use buses instead — All have ramps and spaces.

Major attractions:

• Louvre: Excellent access via Pyramide entrance from Rue de Rivoli

• Eiffel Tower: Elevators to 2nd floor, 3rd level needs advance booking

• Notre Dame: Ground floor accessible, cobblestones rough around Île de la Cité

Hotels: Book post-1990 buildings near République or Marais — Older Haussmann buildings have narrow elevators, entrance steps. Marais cobblestones around Place des Vosges are challenging.

Download RATP accessibility app for real-time elevator status at Châtelet and Gare du Nord. Paris improving but still behind London overall.

Service used to be included and you just rounded up to nearest euro. Now half the places in Marais and Saint-Germain have tip options on card machines and I have no clue what's expected.

Asked my Airbnb host in République — She said 5-10% becoming normal at nicer bistros around Boulevard Saint-Germain, but traditional cafés and brasseries still don't expect beyond rounding to nearest euro.

Definitely not Jeff's opinion but maybe bring cash for tips so you're not awkwardly stabbing at card machine while waiter watches at Le Procope.

Free wifi in most cafés, all McDonald's on Champs-Élysées, tons of public spaces. Download WiFi Map app — Shows passwords for networks citywide in Marais and République.

Orange tourist SIMs €20 for 20GB data at CDG airport or any Orange store. Much cheaper than international roaming for Métro navigation.

Most Métro stations have free "WIFI_RATP" now including Lines 1, 4, and 14. Slow but works for Google Maps and WhatsApp between République and Châtelet.

Cara, I lived in Le Marais for almost a year and the difference between tourist spots and local gems is absurd. Skip L'As du Fallafel completely — It's pure theater for Instagram now, meu deus. Instead, walk down Rue des Ecouffes to Chez Marianne for better falafel and actual Parisians eating lunch.

For the best sabich in the neighborhood, go to Miznon on Rue des Rosiers but order the cauliflower instead of what everyone posts online. The Jewish quarter has amazing Polish bakeries too — Boulangerie Julien on Rue des Rosiers does proper challah on Fridays.

Trust me from my Brazilian perspective: the kosher wine shops here have better selection than most regular caves à vin, and they're happy to recommend pairings even if you're not buying the expensive bottles. Avoid the weekend crowds and go Tuesday-Thursday morning, tipo assim.