Skip touristy Marché des Enfants Rouges — Bit of a circus now.

Marché Saint-Germain (Tues/Fri/Sat): Brilliant cheese at Rue Mabillon, proper bread from Laurent Duchêne. Fromager lets you taste first.

Marché Monge (Wed/Fri/Sun): Smaller but top quality produce near Panthéon. Perfect for Luxembourg Gardens picnics.

Marché Bastille (Thurs/Sun): Massive along Boulevard Richard-Lenoir, proper local crowd. More French than English spoken which is always good.

Bring shopping bag — They charge for plastic at all Paris markets. Don't touch produce unless invited. Vendors know their stuff, let them pick your tomatoes for tonight vs tomorrow.