Start Praça XV work through colonial and imperial architecture. Area looks sketchy but safe during daylight hours with foot traffic around.

Key stops: Theatro Municipal gorgeous eclectic architecture inspired by Paris Opéra, Biblioteca Nacional one of world's largest libraries, Confeitaria Colombo traditional afternoon tea in stunning 1894 café interior.

Free walking tours most mornings from Carioca Metro station. 2 hours, tips expected but not required. Guides usually history students with real knowledge.