Everyone does the bondinho tram and thinks they've seen Santa Teresa. That's like seeing São Paulo and only hitting Paulista Avenue.

Start at Largo do Guimarães, walk down Rua Almirante Alexandrino past the tourist cafés. Turn left on Rua Monte Alegre — Tiny street with incredible city views, zero crowds. Bar do Gomes on the corner has been serving locals for 40 years.

For food, skip Rua Aprazível's expensive spots. Espírito Santa costs half what Restaurante Aprazível charges. Walk to Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno for Sobrado da Gávea — Family-run place, best moqueca in the neighbourhood.