Why Fontainebleau beats Versailles: Half the crowds, same royal history, and the forest is incredible for hiking. I've been taking this route for years and it's consistently underrated.

Getting there: Take RER A to Châtelet, transfer to RER D direction Montereau, get off at Fontainebleau-Avon (45 minutes total). From the station, take bus line 1 to the château (5 minutes) or walk through the town (15 minutes). The bus runs every 15 minutes.

The château: Napoleon's apartments are more interesting than anything at Versailles. The throne room where he abdicated is genuinely moving. Audio guide is €7 and worth every cent.

The forest: 25,000 hectares of hiking trails and rock climbing spots. Pick up a trail map at the tourist office near the château. The Gorges de Franchard circuit is perfect for beginners — 3km loop with amazing rock formations.

Total cost: €20 for transport, €13 château entry. Go on weekdays for the full peaceful experience.