Everyone hits the main LKF strip. Big mistake. Real action is in the narrow alleys branching off. D'Aguilar Street and Wing Wah Lane have better bars with cheaper drinks and more locals.

Main Lan Kwai Fong street? Overpriced tourist bars packed with expats. Go after 10pm when office crowd clears out. While most of Central does shut down hard after 11pm, LKF's side alleys stay lively until 2-3am — It's one of the few exceptions to Central's early bedtime.

Ce La Vie on D'Aguilar has solid cocktails. Bartenders actually know their craft. Main strip just pours heavy vodka sodas. Happy hour is 5-8pm but atmosphere is dead until later.