When São Paulo's intensity gets overwhelming, this museum becomes my sanctuary. The permanent collection has these wonderful side galleries where you can spend an hour without encountering another soul.

Wednesday afternoons are especially peaceful. The Brazilian art from 1800s onwards tells the country's story beautifully, and the building itself - a converted train station - has gorgeous architecture.

R$15 entry, comfortable benches in every room. The sculpture garden courtyard is perfect for recharging between galleries. Skip the temporary exhibitions on weekends and stick to the permanent collection for maximum solitude.