Al Vino al Vino on Via dei Serpenti in Monti neighborhood. Natural wines by the glass from €6. Owner actually knows his stuff and will talk your ear off about sulfites if you let him.

Il Goccetto near Campo de' Fiori market. Tiny, cramped, incredible selection. €8-12 glasses and they'll let you taste first. Cash only. Gets mobbed after 7pm so go early.

Avoid Salotto 42 near Pantheon. Looks fancy with the marble tables but charges €15 for house wine that costs €4 elsewhere. Tourist theater at its finest.

Real aperitivo: Enoteca Provincia Romana in Testaccio district. Local crowd. Generous cheese plates with your drink. No Instagram props or €20 spritz nonsense.

Pro tip: Romans drink wine with food, not as cocktails. Order something to eat or you'll look like an amateur.