Trastevere before 11pm is tourist hell. After midnight its pure magic.

San Calisto on Piazza San Calisto is the dive bar. €3 beer. €5 negroni. Zero pretension. Open until 2am most nights. Freni e Frizioni on Via del Politeama does solid aperitivo but wait until 10pm or you'll be crushed by tour groups taking photos.

Skip restaurants with english menus charging €25 for mediocre carbonara. Real family places like Da Enzo al 29 close kitchens at 11pm sharp because they're cooking for locals not tourists waiting around for instagram photos. The whole energy shifts completely after midnight. Goes from selfie spot to actual neighborhood hangout where Romans drink wine and argue about football.

Take tram 8 from Largo Argentina or walk across Ponte Sisto. The cobblestone streets empty out beautifully around 1am when only the real night owls remain.