Lapa is loud. Crowded. Drinks cost double. Real Rio nightlife is elsewhere.

Bar do Mineiro in Santa Teresa. Simple setup. Plastic chairs. Best caipirinhas in the city. R$20-26 for a proper drink that costs R$25-40 in Ipanema.

Want craft beer? Comuna in Botafogo. Decent cocktails without tourist markup.

Urca has quieter spots. Bar Urca overlooks the bay. Perfect for sunset drinks before things get messy.

Dive bar territory: Pavão Azul in Botafogo. Looks sketchy. Incredible atmosphere. Dirt cheap drinks. You'll either love it or hate it.