This place off chalermprakiet road makes som tam that will absolutely destroy most tourists. Asked for 'pet maak' (very spicy) and got something that made my eyes water for 20 minutes

The papaya is shredded perfectly and they dont go easy on the birds eye chilies. Real fish sauce, lime juice that cuts through the heat, and those fermented crab bits that add serious umami. 60 THB for a portion thats way bigger than tourist spots

Zero english spoken, just point at the som tam sign and hold up fingers for spice level. Level 3 is probably enough for most people unless you really know your thai spice tolerance