Everyone stresses about getting there at opening to beat the heat but honestly the afternoon is when it actually gets good. The cruise ship tours and amman day-trippers leave around 2pm and suddenly you have space to breathe. Plus the light gets warmer and less harsh for photos.

I showed up at 1pm, walked through when it was hot yeah, but by 3pm the temperature dropped noticeably and the treasury had like 15 people instead of 200. Wandered around until closing at 6pm and had entire sections basically empty. The monastery at 5pm? Maybe 8 people there. Actually got to sit on the steps and take it in without someone's ipad in my face.

Brought 3 liters of water and was completely fine. Wore a hat. Didnt die. The bedouin tea guys are still open late afternoon so you can take breaks in the shade if needed.

Morning people can have their sunrise. Ill take an empty monastery and that insane pink-orange glow on the treasury facade at 5:30pm thanks. Like the stone literally looks like its glowing from within when the sun gets low. Morning light is cool-toned and washes it out by comparison.

Caveat: this works october through april. If youre going in summer you probably do want those morning hours because even 3pm is gonna be brutal. But shoulder season and winter? Afternoon gang wins.

Also you can sleep until like 10am, have a proper breakfast, show up refreshed instead of zombie-walking through the siq at 6am having woken up in the dark. Just saying.