Most pattaya restaurants water down spice for foreigners but lan pho naklua fish market vendors cook for locals who want real heat. Tell them "phet maak maak" (very very spicy) or point to what thai customers ordered.

The tom yum goong stalls near the market entrance around noon serve properly spicy versions - 80 thb bowls that'll clear your sinuses. Som tam lady by the fish weighing stations makes authentic northeastern-style papaya salad with "prik kee noo maak maak" (lots of bird chilies).

Take blue songthaew to naklua road for 10 thb. These vendors don't tone down spice because farangs rarely venture past walking street tourist zones.