Everyone talks about first Sunday mornings at Louvre but here's what actually works without fighting crowds around Pyramide entrance.

Palais de Tokyo — Always free for the permanent collection, €12 for special exhibitions. Contemporary art in gorgeous 1930s building near Trocadéro, never crowded. Perfect culture without Châtelet chaos.

Maison de Victor Hugo in Place des Vosges — Completely free, beautiful Marais square, takes 45 minutes max. Perfect between shopping Rue de Rivoli. The manuscripts are fascinating if you read French.

Musée de la Sculpture en Plein Air — Outdoor sculpture park along Seine near Bastille and Gare d'Austerlitz. Free 24/7, great for evening walks. Combine with dinner in 12th arrondissement along the water.

Petit Palais on Champs-Élysées — Free permanent collection, paid exhibitions usually €10-15. The Belle Époque garden courtyard café is lovely and building itself is stunning art nouveau near Grand Palais.

Skip the first Sunday madness at Orsay and Pompidou. These smaller spots give you culture without the stress, and you can actually see the art properly without tour groups.