We learned the hard way to skip Parque Lleras (the main gringo nightlife zone) completely. Overpriced watered-down drinks served to tourists who don't know any better, and we definitely fell into that trap our first night.

Zorba near Palacio de la Cultura (the grand white cultural center downtown) became our regular spot. Actual cocktails made by bartenders who muddle their own herbs and know the difference between mezcal and tequila. Live jazz some Thursday nights, though their scheduling is wonderfully Colombian - meaning flexible. Carrera 52 #52-03, cash preferred.

El Chappeau in Laureles (residential neighborhood, Estadio metro) feels like your friend's basement bar if your friend happened to stock 30 types of rum. Dive bar aesthetic but the bartender crafts proper drinks. No English menu keeps most tourists away, which creates the perfect local atmosphere we were craving.

Bar Chiquita downtown (Calle 53 near Prado metro) is our secret weapon. Hole-in-the-wall, cash only, generous pours, and we're usually the only non-Colombians there. The kind of place where conversations start over shared appreciation for strong aguardiente and end with phone numbers exchanged for weekend asados.