When all the major museums feel overwhelming and crowded, this place is a peaceful refuge. Small but excellent collection spanning ancient art to Art Nouveau.

Go right when they open at 10am on weekdays. You'll practically have the place to yourself for the first hour. The gardens outside are perfect for sitting quietly between galleries.

Entry is 10 euros and includes both the main collection and modern art building. Much more manageable than spending a full day fighting crowds at bigger museums.