Things to see Tips for Kyoto

The famous tunnel of orange torii gates is one of the most photographed spots in Japan, and during the day it shows — By 10am you're shuffling through shoulder to shoulder with hundreds of other tourists and selfie sticks. It's still beautiful but the atmosphere is completely lost.

Go at dawn. I got there at 5:15am and had the first section of gates entirely to myself. The light filtering through the gates at that hour is extraordinary — Soft, golden, and quiet. You can hear birds. You can actually stop and take a photo without someone walking into frame. It feels sacred, which is what it's supposed to feel like.

The full hike to the summit of Mount Inari takes about 2–2.5 hours and most tourists only do the first 20 minutes before turning back. This means the further up you go, the more peaceful it gets. The summit has a small shrine and panoramic views over Kyoto that are worth the climb.

Along the way there are smaller shrines, fox statues, and little rest stops selling hot tea and simple snacks. The mountain trail section after the midpoint is genuinely beautiful — Moss-covered stone, forest light, almost no people.

Getting there early: the shrine is open 24 hours (it's free, no ticket needed). Take the JR Nara Line to Inari Station — The gates are literally across the street. First trains run from about 5:30am. Bring a torch or use your phone light for the first 20 minutes if you arrive before sunrise.

By the time you come back down around 7:30am, the crowds will just be arriving. You'll walk past them feeling like you've had a completely private experience. Worth every minute of the early alarm.