Skip the expensive rooftop bars and head to traditional tea gardens along the Üsküdar waterfront. Around Şemsi Paşa and Mihrimah Sultan mosque areas there are several family-run çay bahçesis with tables right on the water.

Turkish tea costs 8-15 TRY per glass in proper thin-waisted glasses. You can sit for hours watching ferries cross the Bosphorus. Sunset view of the Historical Peninsula is spectacular.

Most places serve fresh simit and Turkish breakfast items too. Much more genuine atmosphere than tourist café chains.