Aksaray restaurants serve food from Hatay province near Syrian border. Not mild 'Turkish food for tourists' - Middle Eastern spicing that makes you sweat.

Muhammara walnut-pepper paste is basically edible fire. Lahmacun Antakya-style with proper Aleppo peppers, spicy bulgur salad locals eat as courage test. Çiğ köfte here is real deal with enough spices to strip paint.

Most dishes 42-68 lira. Have milk ready.