Little tea houses tucked between shops around Eminönü serve the most perfect Turkish tea in the city. My favorite is Çınaraltı Tea House on Hamidiye Caddesi - proper tulip glasses, tea brewed exactly right, none of that bitter overstepped stuff from tourist places.

Order 'şekerli' (with sugar) or 'şekersiz' (without) and they bring tiny cubes on the side. Atmosphere is pure Istanbul - old men playing backgammon, call to prayer from nearby mosques, tea glasses clinking constantly.

5 TRY for tea that puts any chain to shame.