Hidden behind the Galatasaray fish market, Mandabatmaz serves tea the old way with a proper samovar. They've been doing it since 1967 and haven't changed anything. The çay comes in tiny glasses with two sugar cubes, exactly like it should be.

Sit at one of the wooden tables and watch them work the samovar. Check current prices for tea and Turkish delight, but you can sit for hours. The regulars play backgammon and argue about football. This is what tea culture looks like in Istanbul.