Most people treat Üsküdar as photo opportunity then leave. Huge mistake. This is where you see Istanbul without tourist performance.

Start Maiden's Tower, walk up Çamlıca Hill for proper city views, explore Ottoman neighborhoods around Ayazma Mosque. Real çay gardens where locals actually go, working mosques, proper markets.

Stay for sunset at waterfront tea gardens. Call to prayer echoing across Bosphorus at dusk hits different than tourist area mosque announcements. Ferry back 25 lira.

I lived there for three weeks. Takes a day to appreciate properly.