
Istanbul
🇹🇷 Turkey
Eat at Çiya Sofrası (Ottoman cuisine restaurant in Kadıköy) for historical plant-based dishes
Çiya Sofrası near Kadıköy ferry terminal serves traditional Ottoman dishes that most Istanbul restaurants completely forgot. Owner Musa Dağdeviren researches historical cookbooks and recreates regional recipes from across the former Ottoman Empire - it's like eating culinary archaeology.
The menu changes seasonally but always includes tons of naturally vegan Ottoman vegetables dishes: stuffed eggplant varieties, herb-heavy bean preparations, seasonal stews, and fermented vegetable sides. Everything is clearly labeled and the staff knows all ingredients and preparation methods. No weird substitutions needed - these dishes were plant-based for centuries before anyone coined the term "vegan."
There are two locations on the same street (Güneşlibahçe Sokak): one focuses on Ottoman classics, the other on regional specialties from different provinces. Expect to pay around 340 lira per person for multiple courses. The restaurant gets packed during lunch service, so arrive early (11:30am) or late (after 2pm) for better service and table selection.
Dağdeviren has published multiple cookbooks about Ottoman cuisine and is a serious food scholar, not just a restaurant owner. His research trips across Turkey and the Balkans result in dishes you literally cannot find anywhere else in Istanbul. This is the place to understand how plant-rich Ottoman cuisine was before modern Turkish food became so meat-heavy.
Comments
Please sign in to comment.