Everyone says avoid tourist areas for accommodation but Santa Croce neighbourhood is the exception. Yes it has major sights, but also genuine local life after 6pm when day-trippers vanish.

Book near Piazza Santa Croce itself - walking distance to everything but the square empties beautifully evenings. Local restaurants emerge, residents come for aperitivo, you get authentic Florence rhythm.

Apartments around Via de' Benci are excellent - Renaissance buildings converted to proper flats, not soulless hotels. Spent three weeks there last spring, felt like temporary local.