Most people hit Joyce Tower in Sandycove and call it done. Dublin Writers Museum on Parnell Square covers Swift, Wilde, Shaw, Joyce, Beckett - decent starting point though displays feel dated.

Real magic following Bloomsday trail through city. Sweny's Pharmacy on Lincoln Place still sells lemon soap like Leopold Bloom bought - €2.50 bar. Evening readings, owner genuinely loves talking Joyce. Much better than reading wall plaques.

Joyce statue on North Earl Street positioned where he walked daily. Writers Museum €5, tower €8 if you're into literary pilgrimage rather than box-ticking.