Skip the hotel zone tourist traps. Downtown has actual cocktail culture.

La Taberna del Capitán. Second floor overlooks the lagoon. Carlos behind the bar knows his mezcal. Happy hour until 8pm.

Tequilarya has a hidden rooftop. Go through restaurant, ask about "arriba." Most tourists never find it.

Both places you'll hear Spanish being spoken. That's your sign you found the right spot.