If you need to escape Cairo's beautiful chaos, Diwan in Zamalek has become my second home. The English section downstairs is excellent - proper books on Egyptian history, not just tourist guides.

But the real gem is upstairs. The café serves legitimately good coffee and has that rare thing in Cairo: peaceful reading atmosphere. They host author events and literary discussions fairly regularly.

It's on 26th July Street, impossible to miss. The air conditioning alone makes it worth seeking out when you need to recharge between sights.