Canggu's turned into a zoo. Uluwatu at dawn still delivers proper barrels without 200 beginners in the lineup. Paddle out from the cave entrance around 6am. Works best on medium swells, incoming tide.

Bring reef booties - the rocks are sharp as hell. Warung up top serves decent coffee for post-surf. Board rental from drifter surf shop in bingin village, 150k/day for decent sticks. Just don't drop in on the locals - respect the pecking order and you'll be fine.