🍝 Roscioli (Via dei Chiavari 34) — This deli-restaurant serves carbonara that absolutely destroys anything you'll find around Piazza Navona. Their cacio e pepe is textbook perfect, €16, and the cheese counter selection rivals anything in France. Book 2 days ahead for dinner. Exception to the 'avoid near monuments' rule because the quality is extraordinary.

🍕 Emma Pizzeria (Via del Monte della Farina 28) — Proper Roman pizza al taglio, always packed with locals which is your best sign. Their supplì are crispy perfection, €2.50 each. They slice pizza to order from massive rectangular trays.

🥩 Matricianella (Via del Leone 4) — The amatriciana here is legendary among serious food people. Elegant but never pretentious, €18 for pasta that locals consider the gold standard. Make reservations.

🍖 Jewish Quarter institutions like Piperno serve the city's best carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style artichokes) — Twice-fried until they're crispy flowers, €12 each and worth every euro.

Red flags to avoid: photos of food posted outside, English-speaking touts grabbing tourists, "tourist menu" signs, anyone trying to physically drag you inside. If they're working that hard to get customers, the food is guaranteed mediocre at best.