THE MARKET: New Testaccio market isn't tourist Instagram fodder - Romans shop here. Morning stalls sell produce, afternoon food courts serve proper Roman dishes. Mordi e Vai does the best porchetta sandwich (€5).

RESTAURANTS: Checchino dal 1887 for traditional quinto quarto if you're brave. Da Remo for pizza al taglio that locals queue for. Flavio al Velavevodetto for proper Roman pasta without tourist markup. These places are confident in their quality without aggressive hustling - they let the food speak for itself.

GETTING THERE: Metro B to Piramide, 10-minute walk. Or take tram 3 from central Rome.

Like Borough Market in London but Romans actually use it instead of just photographing it. Way better than Campo de' Fiori tourist circus.