Still adjusting after 6 months living here. Romans eat dinner 8:30-9:30pm minimum, often later. Arriving at 7pm marks you immediately as tourist and many kitchens aren't ready.

Spent first month getting refused at restaurants or getting terrible service because I was eating 'american schedule'. Kitchen staff use 6-8pm for prep, so early requests get eye rolls.

Once I started eating at 9pm, everything changed. Same restaurants that were cold to me suddenly became welcoming. They want to serve you properly when you follow local rhythm.

Lunch is 1-2:30pm, dinner after 8:30pm. Nothing in between except aperitivo 6-8pm which isn't meant to replace meals. Tourist areas adapt but you pay premium for eating off-schedule.