Yeah yeah, everyone says Central Market is touristy, but they're eating at the wrong stalls. This massive Art Deco dome market in downtown Phnom Penh hides some seriously fiery gems if you know where to hunt. Stall 47 near the eastern entrance (Street 63 side) serves num banh chok that'll make you sweat - 8,000 riel for a proper bowl with fermented fish broth that's been simmering since 4am.

Get there before 10am when the chili oil still has that overnight depth and the herbs are crisp. Tell the auntie "chhngaññ chhngaññ" (spicy spicy) unless you're a complete wimp. She'll grin and load it up with enough bird's eye chilies to make locals respect you. The broth has this incredible funkiness from dried fish that most tourist spots completely skip.

Real locals shop on the upper levels - way better prices on silk scarves, silver jewelry, and traditional krama scarves up there. Ground level is tourist tax central, but climb those narrow stairs and suddenly sarongs drop from $15 to $4. Afternoons are prime hunting time when vendors want to move inventory before closing.

Heat level warning: that stall 47 num banh chok is legitimately 7/10 spicy. Don't be a hero if you can't handle proper Cambodian heat - there's no shame in asking for "tiktak" (little bit) spicy first.