Little Italy in Manhattan is basically a tourist theme park now. Arthur Avenue in the Bronx is where actual Italian families still shop and eat daily. Take the 4 train to Fordham Road, then the Bx12 bus east about 10 minutes.

Cosenza's Fish Market makes fresh mozzarella every morning. Madonia Bakery has been family-owned since 1918 - their bread is incredible. Full Moon Pizza serves actual Sicilian-style pizza made by people from Sicily.

You'll hear Italian being spoken, see nonnas doing their weekly shopping. It's a functioning neighborhood, not a movie set like Mulberry Street has become.