Those Hollywood Sign tours charge $60 for what you can do free with better views. Park at Griffith Observatory (2800 E Observatory Rd) - free before 4pm weekdays, $10 main lot after. Take Mount Hollywood Trail for 3-mile roundtrip with 1,000ft elevation gain to the best vantage point.

Trail starts behind the observatory building - look for the clearly marked trailhead near the parking area. Well-maintained but bring 32oz water minimum and actual hiking shoes (not flip-flops). You'll climb through chaparral and oak groves with increasingly epic views of the entire LA basin plus perfect sight lines to the sign.

Timing is everything: arrive before 8am on weekends or parking fills completely. Best light occurs 2 hours before sunset when the sign glows golden against the mountains. The crowds at Runyon Canyon are a tourist zoo nightmare.

Pro tip: the observatory telescope shows are free Tuesday-Friday 7-9:45pm if you want to combine your hike with stargazing. Clear nights only - check griffithobservatory.org for schedule.