Forget hipster coffee shops. Real Malaysian coffee culture happens in old kopitiams where the same uncle has been making kopi-o for thirty years. The ritual is half the experience.

Try Yut Kee on Jalan Dang Wangi near the LRT - operating since 1928. Order kopi-o kosong and watch the sock filter technique. Pair with roti bakar and half-boiled eggs.

Kedai Kopi Cheong Foong at Jalan Panggung in Chinatown serves coffee strong enough to wake the dead for under RM3. Open 6am-2pm, no Instagram vibes expected.