Bewley's on Grafton Street serving Dublin since 1927, best place to understand city's coffee culture. Cherry buns legendary (€3.50), afternoon tea service (€49 plus booking fee) includes proper Irish breakfast tea with scones.

Stained glass windows upstairs gorgeous, usually quieter than ground floor café. Harry Clarke designed windows 1920s - worth seeing even if not staying for tea. They roast own beans, buy bags to take home.

More authentic experience than many hotel afternoon teas. Where locals actually go for special occasions.