Forget tacos for a day and try cochinita pibil - slow-roasted pork wrapped in banana leaves. La Chaya Maya downtown does it traditionally for 95 pesos. The achiote paste gives it this incredible orange color and earthy flavor that reminds me of northern thai curries.

Sopa de lima is another local specialty - chicken soup with lima agria that's completely different from regular limes. Parque de las Palapas has vendors serving it fresh every evening around 6pm.