The tourist tea spots charge ₹50 for weak milky water. Real chai costs ₹10-15 and tastes like heaven. Head to the small stalls around Agra Fort railway station or near Sadar Bazaar early morning.

Look for places with huge metal kettles boiling constantly and locals standing around drinking from small glasses. The best chai wallah I found was near the auto stand behind Agra Fort — No English menu, just perfect cardamom tea served in kulhad clay cups. They also make excellent ginger tea if you ask.